Traveling in South America
Recommendations for Hostels, Restaurants, and Tours in Peru, Bolivia, and Argentina
As you may have figured out by now, I love South America, and am already thinking about how I can get back there on another journey. I love to offer suggestions on places to stay, restaurants to try out, and ways to travel a bit easier, so I thought I'd put together a little website to share what I know. Right now it's hostels (honestly, the most important part) and some tours and restaurants, but eventually I may include even more links or addresses, especially for those places that are vegetarian friendly!
Peru
Lima
Loki Hostel • popular European-style hostel located on the main thoroughfare in Miraflores, the more upscale, tourist-friendly neighborhood, with comfortable beds, warm showers, free internet, and a popular bar • my pick for Lima
The Point Hostel • another popular European-style hostel located in Barranco, the more bohemian neighborhood with lots of nightlife, which has a nice garden with hammocks, but can get really loud due to the bar
Inkawasi Hostel • quieter hostel in Miraflores, further from the noisy thoroughfares but still conveniently located, with private rooms, less social, and more like a converted family home
Vegetarian Eateries in Lima • this site mentions and gives directions for all the vegetarian places I visited, including Bircher Benner, Villa Natura, and Govinda (my haven in Miraflores) ; I'd also suggest Madre Natura at Chiclayo 815, which has a great cafe through the veggie store and is the place all the locals recommend
Arequipa
The Point Hostel • popular and cozy hostel located a 10 minute walk from the city center, but with a lovely outdoor garden, an in-house bar, and comfortable rooms
Traveller Not Tourist • if you want to book a trek to Colca Canyon, check out this website, Luis speaks fluent English along with Spanish of course and they arrange volunteer opportunities and donate to kids in need
Crepisimo • used to be called Zig Zag Creperie, and is a perfect place to get sweet and savory crepes, yummy drinks, and relax with some friends, we went here countless times because it was such a pleasant dining experience and they don't judge if you order BOTH a sweet and savory crepe, lots of veggie ones of course!
Cusco
Loki Hostel • huge, always full hostel located up a steep, steep hill, with the standard in-house bar and free internet, dependable hot (hot!) showers, a bit overwhelming though, a good option but I'd stay somewhere else if I returned (perhaps The Point)
Moni Cafe Restaurant • Moni is a delicious vegetarian restaurant located in the heart of Cusco with some delicious veggie versions of Peruvian standards, definitely a standout though Cafeé Cultural Ritual and El Encuentro are also wonderful
Jack's Cafe (review in Frommer's) • you don't need me to tell you about Jack's Cafe, which is one of the most popular restaurants in Cusco among locals and visitors alike, with some of the most tasty veggie burgers I have ever had
Aguas Calientes/Machu Picchu Town
I wouldn't recommend the place I stayed or anywhere I ate. This town is a big, depressing rip-off just like the guidebooks say. Book well in advance and shop around for a good deal or else you'll pay for every bed in the room like I did.
Puno
El Manzano • comfortable enough hostel located near the harbor and bus station and within a reasonable walk to the center of town, will arrange trips out on Lago Titicaca, provides a solid breakfast, does book up so try to make reservations in advance
Bolivia
La Paz
Adventure Brew Hostel • near the bus station, two buildings, comfortable rooms, free pancake breakfasts and beer, clean and modern with hot showers, one of the best hostels the whole trip (far better than the La Paz Loki)
Café Sol y Luna • oh-my-goodness this is some of the best soup and food I had during the entire trip, a Dutch owned bar/restaurant with delicious drink options, you have got to try the gado gado, trust me, worth a return visit or three
Sucre
Hostelling International Sucre • pretty good choice in Sucre, although quite far away from the main plaza, and it's an HI-affiliate so that means that amenities are limited, though the converted house is pretty and comfy
Potosí
Koala Den • I've stayed in Potosí before and Koala Den is the best option, most backpackers pass through here and you may run into someone you know like I did, they can arrange mine tours, breakfast is provided, there's a TV room, and you'll experience a strange type of warm, comfortable bunk bed
Uyuni
Plan it right and you won't have to spend a night in this strange town. Don't stay at the HI because they'll conveniently forget you made a reservation and leave you stranded at 4AM.
Tupiza
Hostel Valle Hermoso • two buildings, we stayed in the one near the train station, plenty of rooms of all different sizes, some with bathrooms, plenty warm and comfortable, laundry service, HI-affiliated so no breakfast, they will try to hard-sell their tours, if they offer a deal it may be worth it, because the one we did at Tupiza Tours was not particularly great
Argentina
My more extensive trip through Argentina was over five years ago, so my recommendations are outdated -- which is a good thing, because Argentina has undergone a hostel boom and there are so, so many great options.
Salta
Terra Oculta • funky, friendly hostel located in a convenient part of town, with its own upstairs bar, plenty of bathrooms, super clean kitchen, and storage lockers
Sayta Cabalgatas • basically, horseback riding in the Salta area is synonymous with Enrique, and if you mention him in any tour agency, they will immediately know who you are talking about and will easily book it for you -- do a full day of riding, you will love it, you will drink lots of wine and eat empanadas (vegetarian options are easy for them), you will laugh and it will be unforgottable and you will be in love with horses forever -- worth every penny!
Salta Rafting • this is the main rafting company in Salta, you pay a little more but you have the options of doing ziplines (what they call canopy) over the canyon which is an amazing, fun experience, the rafting is nothing tough but good times nonetheless