I’m moving to Peru in July!

For the past few years, I’ve wanted to get back to South America, and not just for a backpacking journey, as much as I want that too!  Instead, I wanted to live in one place for a while, perhaps teaching English and using all my years of experience.  But the idea of flying to Brazil or Colombia and looking for a job once there made me nervous.  Plus, I’ve been in the for-profit sector for a little while, and want to give back some of what I’ve gained.  I kept thinking about one of my friends from my last trip; she spent a few months volunteering in northern Peru after touring the region, and absolutely loved it.  So I checked out Volunteer South America, and found that my teaching skills are in high demand.

After a lot of research, I spotted The Light and Leadership Initiative, a small nonprofit which helps women and children in Huaycan, a community outside Lima, Peru.  Happily, they had a year-long “internship” opportunity for an English Education Coordinator, and something just clicked.  The position lined up perfectly with my experience and motivation.  I could use my program management and curriculum skills from my nonprofit jobs.  I could use my English teaching skills, which have only improved in the last couple of years, to encourage other teachers.  I could empower women towards positive change in their lives (always one of my main goals).  I could help bright kids from poorer communities compete scholastically with privileged children from the big city.

So I researched, and researched, and watched moving videos about the community.  I realized how much I could make a difference for the educational opportunities in a community of Andean migrants.  Finally, I applied and interviewed with Lara, the Executive Director.  After speaking to her, I felt even more motivated, and was so happy when they offered me the position.  But my practical, nervous side kicked in at that point – Can I really even do something like this?  What will it be like to live in the volunteer house?  Will I be able to find a job when I get back?  What about my life in Boston, which has been improving more and more each month?

Then I thought about it even more.  The time is now.  I can’t predict the future (and let me tell you, I’ve tried).  I’m in a place in my life where a big move is not incredibly disruptive to my career or my relationships, and I’m not getting any younger.  There is so much to gain from this opportunity: professional experience and personal growth, friendships, even more fluent Spanish skills, the soul-fulfilling experience of living near the Andes again.  But there is even more to give, namely, support to women and children in a community that needs attention. Win-win.

So I accepted!  And now I’ve booked my ticket and given notice at my job, so I can announce it to the world!

On July 1, I will leave Boston for Lima for at least one year.  Who knows what will happen in July 2013; I certainly can’t predict the future.  If there is one thing I understand now, it’s that we really can’t see how the lines of our lives will connect.  Opportunities appear when you’re open to them.  And I’m ready to live in South America again.

At the end of my volunteer position, I hope to travel, especially to Chile, Argentina, and Brazil!  It’s time to explore and experience the world again.  I can’t wait.

If you want to support the organization I’ll be working with, you can do so here.

Last gardening season, I decided to branch out and start seeds. I began some inside, and others outside. I did the best with what I had: a sunny window and some plant stands. Surprisingly, it worked well!

Once the danger of frost was past, I moved my plant babies outside, where they joined the other plants which easily withstand (or even benefit from) cold weather: radishes, swiss chard, arugula, bunching onions, and spinach.

I also welcomed the return of my chocolate mint and tarragon, which survived the brutal winter outside, and came back better than ever!

By the end of May, the garden was full of fresh herbs. What can I say, I like having a variety to choose from!

But this was just the beginning…summer is the season of brightly colored flowers, red tomatoes, and hot peppers, which I grew in big numbers. While I won’t be starting plants from scratch this year (it’s so time consuming…and space consuming), I’m glad I have the experience under my belt!

In future posts, I’ll show you the fruits (literally) of my labor.

I’ve been feeling reflective lately, since my life back on the east coast was finally getting underway two years ago when I lived in Providence. One year ago, I was trying to start up the blog after a season of hibernation. But this past winter was much milder, and I’m a lot happier here now. So today I’d like to share some recent photos of Boston. I’ve got a nice stash of Boston photos from the past two years, along with more shots from several trips to NYC, two trips to DC, and one to Chicago. It’s about time I wrote about these awesome places!

Boston is beautiful when the sun is shining and the sky is blue.

I work downtown in the mornings, and I find Downtown Crossing particularly lovely early in the day when the sun is bright, before it becomes crowded in the afternoon, and desolate in the evening.

Many New England cities have these rows of buildings which make it feel familiar, but Boston’s most famous buildings are what make it recognizable, such as my favorite, the John Hancock Tower.

This is one of my favorite pictures of Boston. I was wandering through Boston Common a couple of days before Christmas in a wonderful mood. I’d just run into an old friend from high school after a morning of ice skating and an afternoon of great conversation with friends. The grey clouds parted, and the sun broke through, making everything look beautiful and full of life, even in winter.

It is still hard to believe that I have lived here for almost two years, but it has taken that long to really appreciate Boston. It’s quite different from the warm weather and beaches of San Diego and the crazy, hectic New York lifestyle. But I do appreciate it, especially in springtime!

This long weekend was much needed, and I made the best of it.  I’ve been feeling a little run-down and under the weather for a few weeks now, and I needed some time to recover.  To start, I spent Friday night doing something amazing: indoor rock climbing!

The fact that I was back on the wall for three hours proves that if you really want something, you won’t give up on it!  Back in 2003 I went rock climbing at the Boston Rock Gym a handful of times with some college friends, and I’ve wanted to go again for years.  When I was in NYC, I researched finding a partner to climb with, but it didn’t happen.  In San Diego, a friend and I signed up and showed up for a class on our university campus, but the instructor never came.  But back here in Boston, where it all begin, two friends and I took a class last weekend and now have gone two more times, with big plans to continue.  I love it.  By my third day, I got over my fear of falling and have been using my yoga skills to balance on my legs rather than gripping with my hands.  I can’t wait to go again this Friday, and beyond!

Saturday was my recovery day, for reading library books, and making my one of my favorite meals: homemade pizza.  When I moved back to New England, I started making pizza every week but fell out of the habit.  Well, it’s back; I’ve been making it every weekend.  There’s nothing like a slice hot out of the oven.

Sunday was my day to enjoy the sunshine.  I made pistachio date scones for breakfast, enjoying the sunlight streaming in through the windows.  This is an amazing flavor combination, and the cream scone base with high quality butter is just perfect.

Then I headed out to run some errands and do some browsing at the local Goodwill, where I keep an eye out for great paperbacks and Pyrex.  I also stopped into EMS (Eastern Mountain Sports) to scope out the climbing gear.  I’m that serious.   While in Chestnut Hill, I realized there was a walking/hiking path right by the shopping center, and I decided to go on a walk to enjoy the warm winter weather and fresh air.  I had had the foresight to bring my camera, and it made me pay attention to the natural beauty of the browns and blues of Hammond Pond Reservation.

After a refreshing long walk, I was hungry and ended up heading to Newton Center.  While scoping out the shops, I spotted an old-style diner with a lunch counter.  I’ve always wanted to eat at one of those when on my own, so now was the time.  While the food was just okay, the experience was great.

Monday, the bonus day, was incredibly productive.  I started out by uploading all my old photos so that I’m ready for all the blog posts to come, and I spent much of this evening updating and refining my blog.  How does it look?

We spent several hours climbing at the rock gym, where I continued to break through my mental limits. Friday night found me gripping the wall in fear, but today I balanced easily on one leg and one arm as I searched for the next move.

When I got back home, I got right to work on this week’s loaf of bread.  I’ve finally taken up bread baking, and have been trying to do a loaf per week for a filling breakfast.  This time I’ve got lunch and dinner in mind, with Oatmeal Sandwich Bread from Good to the Grain, a book I conveniently have out from the library. (More photos at Flickr.)

As I was going through the bread making process, I made a Millet Bowl, a delicious and healthy recipe which has entered my standard meal rotation as well.  After, I decided to make Whole Wheat Chocolate Chip Cookies, also from Good to the Grain!  I tried them a few weeks ago, but made a big mistake when halving the recipe…let’s just say they were oversalted.  This time, they came out really well.

And that brings us to now, with me following through and writing a long overdue blog post (and it is really long).  As you can see, it really was a perfect weekend, full of food and friends and fun.

So there is a lot more to come as I catch you up on the trips I’ve taken, the food I’ve made, the plants I’ve grown, and the crafts I’ve been working on, among other things.  Enjoy!

The summer was busy.  I started my new job, worked long hours, led field trips around my new city, and taught private ESL lessons.  I explored Cambridge and Boston and tried to keep up with my running and gardening.  At the same time, I looked for a nice, affordable, long-term living situation with good roommates, which, as any young Bostonian knows, is a brutal (and competitive) thing to do for September 1.

When fall arrived, things calmed down a bit.  I moved into an apartment in Allston.  I spent more time with my friends and family, as my brother also moved into town.  I got back into the things I loved, such as salsa dancing and yoga.  I traveled a little bit, visiting Washington, DC and Chicago (finally!).  I reconnected with friends on these trips and explored on my own.  I met lots of good people in the fall.

Then winter came in, calmly at first.  I pulled out my knitting, so much easier to do in cooler weather.  I continued with yoga, finally committing to and deepening my practice.  I figured out how to keep my plants alive indoors.  I baked, and baked some more.  But then the snow started…and continued…and repeated the cycle again (and again).  This winter has been brutal, and I am so happy it is almost over.

2011 has been interesting so far.  I visited Miami for a dear friend’s wedding, and I’m planning other trips for later this year.  I am continuing to do lots of yoga.  I’m looking forward to riding my bike to work in the spring and running outside once again.  I’m hoping to take more salsa classes or just get out and dance.  I’d like to pick up jewelry making again once it gets too warm to knit comfortably.

2011 will also be there year when I turn 30.  I’ve been working on a 30 before 30 list, and I’ll share my plans soon, along with photos from my trips and projects.  Now that things are more relaxed, I have space to introduce new things, and I hope writing here will be one of them!

As I mentioned back in March, I moved to Providence, Rhode Island to work on a temporary project teaching beginning literacy skills to English-speaking immigrants and refugees.  I have learned so much from this job about what goes in to developing reading and writing skills and it’s been a fantastic challenge to help my students learn and develop phonics, phonemic awareness, and decoding skills that I took for granted, since I can’t remember a moment of not being literate.  I always say that my job as a teacher is to build my students’ confidence, and I really feel honored to have participated in their journey.

Though the project looks likely to continue, I’ve decided not to stay in Providence.  Providence has turned out to not be the best environment for me.  I have dealt with major issues with my apartment and found it difficult to even begin to develop a social life as I’ve been teaching an evening class.  Providence is a cute city in some parts with a surprising number of good local bakeries and restaurants, but at the end of the day it’s just not enough of a city for me.  When I decided to move back to the east coast, I wanted to live somewhere where I could develop roots, something that wasn’t happening in San Diego and won’t happen here.  Since I’ve been back east, I’ve had a chance to spend time with family and friends I haven’t seen in years and explore New England a bit, and everything has reinforced the inevitable: I need to move to Boston!

So I am.   At the end of the month, I will be packing the few belongings I brought to RI and move up to Cambridge.  I’m subletting in a great apartment near Mass Ave with plenty of space for me and my plants, which is also near public transportation (hooray!) and fun parts of Cambridge and Somerville.   Moreover, in an incredibly surprising and fortunate turn of events, I’ve already secured employment at a English language school in Boston.  I got a really good vibe from the school and am excited about trying out a new dimension of ESL.  Previously I’ve taught at non-profits and a community college where most students were required to be there to get cash assistance, so I’m curious to see the motivation paying students bring to class.  I’ve also missed ESL and all the humor you can appreciate with language learning.

So as it turns out, after everything, I only spent one season in Providence.  Spring in Providence was perfect for wandering around on foot and exploring different areas, such as the East Side and Downcity.  Over the past few months, I poked around in neat little vintage/antique shops, sampled treats at local Portuguese and gourmet bakeries, tried amazing pizza in North Providence and Federal Hill, and appreciated RI’s strong do-it-yourself vibe, including the local food scene which includes some neat farmer’s markets in Pawtucket and Providence.  Mostly I wandered and enjoyed the sun and spring breezes around Fox Point and the East Side when the weather decided to take a break from cold and/or rain.  I also relaxed and read in India Point Park on Providence’s less-than-scenic waterfront near Route 195, and went running on the nice safe path in the middle of Blackstone Boulevard (one of the fancier parts of town, good for imagining Providence’s affluent past).

All things considered, I think spring was the perfect season for getting to know Providence since I got an opportunity to appreciate it at its best and will leave feeling like it’s a nice city, just not a place I will call home.  Here is some photo evidence of my spring spent in Providence:

I’ll be back soon to show off my new container garden and some of the baked goods I’ve been producing like mad lately.

After a 10 hour drive from Oklahoma City to Nashville, I arrived at the Music City Hostel, exhausted and hungry. Music City Hostel is a far busier, friendlier hostel, which is due in part to the nature of Nashville, bringing musicians and party lovers to check it out, and also to the fact that a number of people are actually living on the premises, most trying to break into the music industry. The hostel is a converted apartment complex, with safe parking in the back, and bunk beds in every available room, including the kitchens and living rooms. But instead of staying in their units, people congregate in the main one with the real kitchen, tv, computers, laundry, etc, and everyone was incredibly friendly and helpful. I got a great recommendation for Cafe Coco, where I was able to find vegetarian food without going too far (apparently this cafe/music spot is a must visit). I also went to a seriously impressive wine/liquor store, Midtown Wine and Spirits, which I came across accidentally because I went the wrong direction in my tiredness!

As soon as I walked back in the door with my veggie chili, salad, and wine to unwind, the other guests informed me that the cab was on its way and I was coming out with them. I brought my conveniently-packed chili along with me, dropped everything else off, and headed out to the bars with a group of travelers from Canada, the Netherlands, Scotland, Australia, the US, and elsewhere. We barhopped around Paradise Park, Robert’s, Big Shotz, and Tootsie’s, listening to and dancing to country music, trying out jello shots in giant syringes, and chatting and enjoying the company of new friends. I would never have thought I would dance and dance and dance to country music, but the energy of these bands and these packed bars, even midweek, was infectious. Robert’s in particular, with its cowboy boots on the wall, and its delicious fried pickles, was a standout.

I arrived home very late at night and got a serious night’s sleep. I needed it after all all that driving and dancing. It worked out well, because as I was getting ready to head out into the dreary, rainy day, my dormmate came home from a job interview and we headed to the East End to explore together. East Nashville is apparently quite the interesting, up-and-coming neighborhood, and I enjoyed all the quirky shops we stopped in at. We had lunch at Calypso Cafe, which I’d found out about in a search for vegetarian restaurants. The food was Caribbean-fusion, with greens and beans and coconut and cornbread, and was tasty, though not my favorite meal during my trip.

Afterwards, we wandered around the Five Points area on foot. My favorite stop was the Green Wagon, an adorable eco-friendly store located in a cute house with organic and natural products, unique reusable bags and goods, locally made art, jewelry, and chocolate, and an extremely friendly woman working there who gave us good pointers and showed that Nashville charm. If I hadn’t been so low on funds, I would have bought an amazing shopping bag made of repurposed materials, but I did manage to find something I totally love: a locally-produced lotion (or precious ointment, as the label says) made with all natural ingredients. Something like that is a perfect souvenir, because not only did it soothe my chapped hands, but I continue to use it and remember the cute little shop. I also picked up a vintage purse, and my hostel buddy got a great top.

Next, we went to two vintage shops (where I almost bought a pair of blue cowboy boots, but they just didn’t fit right), followed by a requisite stop in the Pied Piper Creamery. The owner of Pied Piper was super nice and entertained my questions about her business. She had some fun flavors, but more importantly, she had a welcoming environment for kids and adults alike. The ice cream shop shares its cute house with Great Stuff, a gift shop with some neat things, including a hat which I couldn’t resist.

After East Nashville, we figured we had to do something stereotypically Nashville, and went to the Opryland Hotel. This place was totally an exercise in excess, all decked out for the holidays. It’s possible to get lost wandering around and seeing all the Christmas decorations. I imagine during other seasons this greenhouse is in bloom with gorgeous plants and flowers.

After a long day of wandering in the damp Nashville air, we headed back to the hostel to hang out and get ready for another night on the town. This night was even crazier than the one before. I got my own order of fried pickles for dinner (I know, it’s embarrassing but SO GOOD) at Robert’s, and we danced and danced to a fantastic band at The Stage on Broadway, who played a mix of more 90′s and 00′s pop with the odd rock/country hybrid song tossed in. Good times.

Just before I left for the bars, I got a call from my parents, who saw on the news that a major blizzard was heading to the Virginia/DC region, precisely where I was planning to travel the next day to meet up with my brother. My parents suggested heading north to avoid the storm, and though I was bummed to miss hanging out with my brother and seeing his law school (and honestly tempted to wait it out in Nashville), I took their advice and planned to drive north. I got up on a rainy day and headed out to begin the longest drive yet. Destination: Buffalo, New York.

Yes, my friends, it is possible to drive from Nashville, TN to Buffalo, NY in one day. I crossed more state lines that day than any other, drove in pouring rain (but was comforted by the fact that people actually knew how to drive in the rain, unlike in San Diego), and passed through Louisville, KY, Cincinnati, OH, Cleveland, OH, Erie, PA, before finally, finally, finally making it to Buffalo, NY. I chose Buffalo because I wanted to cover as much ground as possible, and it was the only place where I could find a semi-reasonably priced hotel within an 8-12 hour drive of Nashville. That said, it was a very long, exhausting drive and I only made it through because I knew the end was in sight! Leaving Ohio and still having two hours left to drive was disheartening, but, again, I made it.

I actually thought I’d try to go to Niagara Falls the next morning before heading on my way, but as it turns out, the storm was coming up the east coast quickly and I decided to play beat the storm to New Hampshire instead. And I won (snow didn’t even hit NH, but I probably would have had to contend with it driving through Massachusetts any later than I did). The drive from Buffalo to NH was relatively pleasant, and even though I paid a hefty toll to drive I-90, the convenient rest stops along the way were worth it.

And just like that, I pulled into my parents’ driveway at 6:30 on December 19th, after a 3,795 mile journey. I absolutely loved the entire trip, even the days where I did nothing but drive through uninteresting landscapes and places I didn’t get to explore. To mentally approach a trip of this size, I just had to take it in pieces, which is really the best way to approach life in general. There’s a reason that I know how to say step by step, little by little in many different languages. I have a newfound appreciation for some of the areas I’d never considered interesting before, especially those random stops where I got food or gas or tea and met a friendly person. I’m always interested in getting a broader perspective than the beaten path, but flying around the US has never given me too much of a chance. Now I’ve got plenty of ideas for new road trips.

Thanks to those of you that read through this whole recap, and hopefully it inspired you to get on the road!

Before I left the hostel, I got to meet the donkeys that live on the property. I love horses and their relatives, so I had fun watching them run around and play with each other. I also got to say goodbye to Ringo, the friendliest dog in New Mexico.

Then I got on the road, saying goodbye to New Mexico. I forgot to mention this earlier, but New Mexican sunsets are absolutely gorgeous, too. It’s interesting how each region has such unique sunsets. There wasn’t too much to see on Route 40 through the rest of New Mexico. Like with my trip from Flagstaff, I was reluctant to stop too early in the journey, but I did pass through Tucumcari, New Mexico, where I finally got my shot of something proving that I passed along the historic Route 66. I hopped out of my car, thought I might find somewhere to eat lunch, but as it stood, the town was even smaller than I expected so I kept on going to Texas.

I’d never been to Texas before. While Austin intrigues me, Texas really doesn’t. I was amused to hear the polite Texan accent and speech (ma’am for the first time in a while), but mainly I was happy to get through Texas as quickly as possible. (I did take a picture of the largest cross in America, though, as I passed by.) I stopped in Amarillo to get something at Dairy Queen (what? that’s not healthy road trip eats?!), and again in Shamrock to fill up my gas tank for the second time that day. 500+ miles is a lot of ground to cover.

From there, it was a straight shot to Oklahoma City. While the scenery in Texas was exceptionally flat and uninteresting, western Oklahoma was marginally better. The traffic got a bit more congested in the afterwork hours, and I was surrounded by a lot of terrible drivers. I did, however, see another surprisingly lovely sunset. As I got closer to the city, I drove past a giant display of Christmas lights, which made me smile, but unfortunately, no pictures, boo!

I had booked a room at the Days Inn Oklahoma City Moore, since it got such great reviews on TripAdvisor (see link). It was also only $40 for the night I was there, which was a bargain compared to most other hotels. The hotel is located a bit south of Route 40, and as I got closer I got freaked out because it’s in an area that seemed to have a lot of abandoned car sales lots. However, the hotel itself is super new and comfortable and the parking lot was well-lit and patrolled by security, so I knew I was all good. Plus, I had a king-sized bed, a tv to catch the end of So You Think You Can Dance’s final performance episode, and a microwave to heat up my burrito from the Chocolate Maven. Let me tell you, I was so glad that I had bought something vegetarian for dinner the day before, since there was no food anywhere near the hotel (not that it would have even been veggie-friendly) and I was beyond exhausted from the boring drive. It’s a struggle to stay alert over such a distance!

Despite my comfortable bed, I set my alarm early to get on the road to Nashville. This time I had a 10 hour drive ahead of me, and I wanted to avoid driving too much in the dark (see above comment on having trouble staying alert, especially at night!). After eating a ton of food at the complimentary breakfast bar (I was super hungry and delighted in the over-processed foods, haha), I took off. I passed through Oklahoma fairly quickly, stopping in at a tourist trap to check out moccasins and pin where I was from on a cool map that tracked all their visitors. But I was equally happy to breeze through the state of Oklahoma. I know I don’t know the state, but people just seemed awfully sad everywhere I stopped. It bummed me out.

Somehow, I managed to drive across the entire state of Arkansas without stopping. I wanted to see Little Rock, but Route 40 passes just north of the city and I still had a lot of driving to do to get to Nashville. I think all of these southern states would make for an interesting road trip at another moment. Just after crossing the bridge into Tennessee, I stopped in Memphis, which looked like a pretty cool city from my brief moments gazing out over the river. With all the music history there, I plan to return someday to see more.

By this point, I was getting tired of the road, so I wished I had actually booked the hostel in Memphis. But I kept on truckin’ and made it through the final few hours to Nashville. I have a lot to say about Nashville, so I’m going to save it for my next (and final) post. Nashville was my last sightseeing stop before meeting up with my brother in Virginia, or at least, that’s what I thought!

My trip up to Santa Fe and back again was actually one of the last days of exploring I did during the road trip. With the deadline of meeting my brother in Virginia quickly approaching, I was getting back on the road for long stretches of time the next day. So I had to make the most of this sightseeing trip.

After a night in the snow and almost-scary stillness at the hostel, I got up early amidst beautiful sunlight streaming in the windows of the beautifully designed Sandia Mountain Hostel. (You can also check out my review and extra photos on Yelp.) The reason I loved this hostel is that it was designed to be a hostel, reminding me of places I stayed in South America, with spacious lockers to secure your backpack and belongings, with a big common area for people to get to know each other as they travel through, and a cozy, warm feeling in an area with personality. It seems that business hasn’t felt very sustainable over the years, so it may not be in operation too much longer, but if you are planning a trip, I highly suggest staying here for the true hosteling experience. If you’re in luck, as I was this evening, you’ll get to meet some interesting people with stories to tell.

I got on the road bright and early, taking the Turquoise Trail along Route 14 to Santa Fe. This gave me a chance to stop off in all the small towns along the way. Though the Tinkertown museum was closed for the season, I did get to see the revitalized town of Madrid, NM, a coal-mining village turned ghost town turned artist community. I passed through early in the morning, but I imagine it would be fun to wander and shop.

Next, I arrived in Cerrillos, which was once considered for the capital of New Mexico, but now is pretty much a ghost town. The town was still as I admired the view and the buildings with their remnants of signs and advertisements from much earlier years. It reminded me of New York City’s old advertisements which you can sometimes spot if you look up and pay attention to the paint on the brick buildings. I wandered the very quiet streets and took pictures of the interesting buildings. Note the Christmas bouquet of dried chiles in the photo below.

After Cerrillos, I was almost in Santa Fe. I took one last shot of the scenic mountain landscape, and headed into the city.

Though Santa Fe is known for its museums, I visited on a Monday when most of them are closed, and I’d already seen two the day before. (I’m not much of a museum person, despite my former residence in NYC!) After checking out the views from Museum Hill, I headed over to the art district on Canyon Road, passing the cute little houses and galleries. When I thought I might park and browse a bit (window-shopping, obviously), I realized how touristed and expensive it was there as the “public” parking lot was $10 or more. So instead I headed back down to the main plaza. I took the requisite photos of the Spanish-style colonial buildings and churches, so familiar to me after time in South America.

I’d been excited about Santa Fe for a while, hearing rave reviews from friends, and knowing its reputation for being an artsy area. But upon arrival, I wasn’t that excited about it. It reminded me of Cuzco, Peru, with its expensive city center filled with tourists buying art inspired by the people of the region who live in poverty. I’m not sure if that’s the case in Santa Fe, but I didn’t really care for it. What I did enjoy was browsing the handcrafted silver and beaded jewelry, ceramics, and art sold by Native Americans along one building’s wall in the main plaza. It bothered me that they had to sit on the cold ground in order to sell their art, even though they need permits to sell. Of course, their work was gorgeous and I got some beautiful earrings and bracelets. I wish I’d had more money to spare, because the work was amazing. I love silver jewelry made by artisans, and this was worth the trip.

After getting my fill of the plaza, I decided to leave the city center. Not very inspired by the options in the guidebook, I pulled off to see a Christmas artisan’s market by the remodeled train station, where the Farmer’s Market is held in warmer months. While these handmade goods were created with care, it reminded me of the typical market you can see in any town in America. I left empty handed and decided to look for a local bakery which I’d found out about, the Chocolate Maven. I stocked up on food for my long drive to Oklahoma City the next day, and I was very happy I did so. I bought a peach empanada, a green chile and cheese croissant, Santa Fe’s traditional cookies, biscochitos, and the smartest decision, a black bean, green chile, and cheese burrito ready to be warmed and eaten. I was so overwhelmed by the selection that I neglected to buy what they are known for: brownies!! Next time. This cafe and bakery is located in a kind of random area, but it’s worth checking out.

Tired of Santa Fe despite only spending a few hours there, I decided to head back to Albuquerque via the highway. Luckily for me, I had just enough time for my final detour to Kasha Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument. This is absolutely a must-see. To get there, you drive through Cochiti pueblo and turn off onto a dirt road, so it is really is off the beaten path. I totally lucked out (again!) because I showed up at 3:50, just before the gates closed, but the attendant was already in his car to head out early since no one had come by in hours. He ran to the booth and apologized to me, but no worries, I was just happy I showed up in time to see these cool tent rocks. I had one hour to explore this very quiet landscape, as I had to be out by 5.

Since I couldn’t take the long hike, I power-walked along the trail, making sure I’d get to see all angles and take good pictures and not get trapped in the middle of nowhere by myself with my car packed full of my belongings (at least I had food!). It was gorgeous to be in this haunting landscape, with only trees and mountains in my line of vision. I continue to be amused at how quiet my hikes were. My city-dwelling self couldn’t help but worry that that it was dangerous, but really, it’s peaceful. Sometimes it’s nice to feel like you’re the only one around.

After a lovely hike, I got back in my car and drove back to Albuquerque. I decided to stop in at Satellite Coffee again for some tea, wi-fi, and good vibes, and then headed back to the hostel. Luckily, when I arrived, there were actually other guests: two college girls road-tripping from Ohio to one’s home in LA (via Las Vegas), and a guy moving back to Albuquerque from Minneapolis. Interestingly, the girl from LA and the guy from Albuquerque had already stayed at this hostel and completely fell in love with the place. What can I say, it’s a charmed space. I had fantastic conversation that night, strangers connecting and sharing random things, because this is the one chance you have to talk. I love that about hostels, and even though I needed to get up early to drive to Oklahoma City the next day, I stayed up late, never missing an opportunity to learn about someone new.

I woke up bright and early for two reasons: to check out of the creepy hostel, and to go and get a big breakfast at the well-known Frontier Restaurant.  I had to taste green chile.  I had to try sopapillas.  I had to experience New Mexican cuisine and compare it to my experience with San Diego-style Mexican burritos.  Even if it was 9:30 in the morning.

Yes, this food was as good as it looked. And I probably didn’t need to eat for the rest of the day. That’s the problem with food tourism — you get full and you don’t want to eat all the other treats you come across! After finishing my meal in the busy restaurant, I decided to explore a well-preserved section of Route 66, now known as Central Ave. I saw abandoned motel after abandoned motel, along with those still in use. Again, I felt a little silly hopping out of my car in run-down areas to take pictures of the signs, but others have captured them.

Then I headed back up the road to Old Town to wander around the square before it got too busy. I took pictures of the well-known church, wandered around a bit, and then headed off to see some museums.

I absolutely loved the Albuquerque Museum of Art and History. I got to see gorgeous paintings and photos by local artists, learn about the history of the area, and check out old maps of the region. The best part was that they offer free admission until 2 on Sundays, so it fit my budget. If you visit, check it out; I thought it was completely worth my precious time! Next, I headed to the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center to learn about the different pueblos and cultural practices/arts/textiles of the Native American groups of the region. As many know, this is a fantastic resource in the area, and I got lucky again, as they were having an artisan fair and performances of all types from the community, including a rock band and a traditional storyteller.

Afterwards, I headed back to Old Town to do some browsing in the shops. I love artisan-made jewelry, textiles, pottery, and crafts, so I wanted to see what was on offer. There was beautiful stuff, but I knew I planned on heading to Santa Fe the next day, where I could buy from the artisans themselves.

While I was wandering the plaza, I saw something completely ridiculous and amazing: a man singing from within a snow globe. A crowd gathered around him, confused and amused. Who knew?

In fact, this region has more Christmas spirit than anywhere I’d visited in a long time. Granted, the warm temperatures of San Diego didn’t lend well to that cozy winter feeling, but I did appreciate it, as it got me in the mood and more excited to return to my family’s home just in time for the holiday.

As it got later and colder, I decided to head back to Nob Hill, where the college students and young professionals of the area tend to hang out. I’d heard about La Montañita Food Coop, and always loving a good natural foods market, I grabbed some food there for my breakfast and lunch the next day. They have a great little basket with remnants of interesting cheeses, which you can sample before committing. They also have all the organic breads I love, perfect for someone on a road-trip.

Then, knowing that the hostel I planned on staying at that night did not have wi-fi, I checked out a local coffee chain, Satellite Coffee. I got a nice pot of tea and settled down in a comfortable chair to catch up on things. I also ordered a delicious wrap, despite the fact that I was still full from my breakfast almost 12 hours earlier. But most importantly: their staff was completely attentive and friendly, perfect for a lonely traveler like myself.

After a long, but full, day, I drove to my next hostel, the Sandia Mountain Hostel located just outside Albuquerque in Cedar Crest. I’ll write more about this lovely place in my next post, but I must emphasize this: stay here if you can!! It’s beautiful, designed to be a hostel, and so much safer and more comfortable for travelers than other local options. That said, I showed up during a small snowstorm and didn’t see the beauty until the next morning, as I spent that night in an empty hostel, with only the quiet and an FM radio to entertain me.

Next up: the Turquoise Trail and Santa Fe!